Five Feet, Nine Inches Above Ground

Saturday it rained in Estoi and it only seemed fitting as it was my last day at the quinta with its wonderful community of friends. I was off on a new adventure, however, to the town of Tavira, a grown-up ancient fishing port situated on both banks of the Rio Gilao.

Many thanks to Randy, who volunteered to drive me and my horde of belongings to my new digs, a small but charming apartment on the Rua de Liberdade very close to the heart of the tourist district. The owner, Maria, is a charming host who went out of her way to make sure all was well with the apartment. It’s tucked away behind the shops on the main road and has a lovely walled garden that serves an entrance to my new home.

Saturday afternoon and Sunday were general exploration days. There are approximately forty churches spread around the older part of town and I had a wonderful time accidentally tracking some of the down. Luckily for me, it’s the low season for tourists although there are a few of us about.

The garden side of the entrance to the apartment

…with potted plants

and brick entryway.

The exterior mysterious doorway in the wall.

Touring around Tavira on foot is fairly easy although there’s lots of up hill and down. It’s almost impossible to get lost if you know the main landmarks such as bridges and churches.

The local guard cat was stationed on the roof of the garden shed as I left the grounds on Sunday morning.

First stop, the Church of St Francis

and its garden, currently not open to the public.

Even though it was closed, it adds a lovely air of freshness to the neighbourhood.

Perring through the gate…

learning its history

checking out the blooms

hanging over the wall

even Judas has honourable mention

and then onward into the maze of streets and alleyways

with more flowers…

…in vibrant colours

surrounding doorways.

My route took me over the modern bridge downstream from its Roman counterpart

where one is able to catch

some amazing views

of both river banks.

Sunday was sunny but very windy and I was glad to be off the bridge and walking the banks of the river

where boats of all sorts were at anchor.

I think these are loquat flowers.

Whatever they are, the bees love them.

Her pollen sacs are getting full.

And there’s the Roman bridge.

Continued up hill from the roman bridge

and found an empty lot bordered by a hotel

with this chapel at the top

surrounded by houses.

The railroad bridge and the vehicle bridge.

Speaking of landmarks, that’s the cathedral and water tower in the heart of Tavira.

It was a lovely trek back down the hill.

A chimney caught my eye

followed by the play of light and shadow over the shell of this building facade.

The gardens in the old part of Tavira in front of the church that iis never open

A lovely urban oasis

and the aforementioned church.

I think these might be cliff swallow nests

under the eves of this apartment building.

The detail of this doorknob caught in a blaze of sunlight.

A narrow climb.

And then it was time for lunch. Seared lamb shops with minted gravy vegetables and wine – of course.

Then it was time to trek back to the apartment

Over the Roman bridge

past a black cat

until I came upon a former convent now housing a hotel in its ruins.

Cloisters now used as restaurant area

the baptismal font became a swimming pool

and there’s not much left of the former walls.

although it might be a stairway to heaven.

The cloistered walk

the arch between the nave and chancel in the former chapel.

The painting over the altar area.

The one remaining statue either St Antony or St Christopher..not certain.

There are faint remains of the frescoes in the archways.

And then I slowly wended my way homeward

pausing for views

and flowers

tempting alleyways

and roads.

The convent/hotel series of photos is the Pousada do Convento da Graca. Until the 19th century, it was an Augustinian monastery. The building of the convent of Our Lady of Grace began in the 16th century. Previous to that time, this area of Tavira was known as the Jewish Quarter.Tragically, in 1497, pressure from King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain forced the Portuguese King Manuel I to decree that all Jews that did not convert to Christianity were to be expelled from the country without their children. During restoration work, archeological remains of Islamic origin were discovered. Somehow, it seems appropriate that this space should now house a hotel.