Cusco: the navel of the world

Saturday October 25 2025

Cusco, the ancient capital of the Inca Empire described as the centre of the universe is busy metropolis that continues to expand population wise at a high rate of acceleration. We arrived late evening of Friday having made two flights from Pucallpa. At an elevation of 3,399 metres, it has a higher altitude than Machu Picchu. Altitude sickness is a very debilitating condition for many people and others are not so severely affected. I felt the difference the moment I stepped off the plane. On the upside, it was at least 15 degrees cooler than Pucallpa. we had a wait of several hours between flights in Lima airport so I took a photo of the frog! The night time shots are from the gallery on the fourth floor of the hotel Siete Vantanas.

My Saturday was something extra special for me while the rest of the group had the day to explore the city before heading off to Machu Picchu on Sunday. I have been studying with Wilbert Salas Atasi, a native of Peru, to become a shaman in the Andean tradition. I have known Wilbert for a number of years through the Pure Art Foundation and have a great deal of trust and confidence in him. He learned the Andean Shamanic tradition from his father and grandfather. Saturday was to be my initiation. I was picked up by Wilbert and a friend of his and fellow shaman at 8H30 and we drove for about an hour or so outside of Cusco and up a mountain to Pachatusan: the Keeper of the World. It’s an Incan sacred site used for shamanic rites for centuries. The road we followed up the mountain was a narrow gravel track about the width of the SUV with sheer drops everywhere. My heart was in my mouth as we navigated the serpentine road! That was only part of the initiation.

The ceremony took place at the top of this rock.

A fallow ploughed field where we parked.

The wind was blowing steadily from the south west and there was a fair bit of cloud cover. It rained several times and at one point there was fine hail. It’s springtime in Peru. Wilbert and Juan began to prepare the location for the ceremony and I assisted where I could. Occasionally, I could hear the bleating of lambs in the valley below or the cry of a hawk in the distance. There were small birds everywhere.

The first part of the ceremony, after opening sacred space, was devoted to preparing the despacho; an offering to the universe of the intentions of the ritual. There are gifts for Pachamama or Mother Earth, the heavens above including the one god with many names, the Star Nations and the whole world. There is a lot of detail I won’t go into here. Suffice it to say, it takes time, effort and skill to create something of beauty.

Once the despacho was completed, the ritual of my initiation began with a cleansing of all negative energy. I had time for contemplation and meditation and so it continued. At the conclusion of the rite, the despacho was carried to a cleft in the rocks where a fire was burning and it was placed in the fire.

Pachatusan: Keeper of the World

The Andean shamanic tradition is based on three core values: Yachay / Wisdom, Munay/Unconditional love, Llankay/Service followed by Ayni/ reciprocity and right relationship. It’s also about knowing oneself in full honesty and dealing with all the crap we carry around with us. For example, I am facing my lifelong fear of heights. The trip down the mountain was a lot less fear filled than going up! Why have I made this choice? Because I constantly “hear” our planet begging and screaming at us to stop and pay attention, amend our ways, say thank you for what we have taken without care or regard for the planet. It’s the only one we have and we all have to live together on it. Sometime ago, the Andean shamans decided that it was time to share their knowledge and experience with the rest of the world. My goal as a fledgling shaman is to learn how to heal myself and in turn others in an attempt to save ourselves and the planet. A tall order, I know, so I will start in my small corner and see what the future brings.

We were back in Cusco by about 14H30 and I was very ready for some lunch at Jack’s Restaurant and then a little walk around before dinner. Turns out there was a religious festival going on all weekend sot there was a large parade in the Plaza de Armas. There are videos and photos.