Five Feet, Nine Inches Above Ground

Tuesday February 17 & Wednesday February 18, 2026

The weather gods were not on my side. In stark contrast to Monday, we woke up on Tuesday morning to high winds, rain, and low temperatures. By Tuesday evening there was snow in the air. it all lasted well into Wednesday completely thwarting my plans for exploring (outdoors) my local neighbourhood and further afield. Not to be totally vanquished, Mahmood said he would take us to a park. So we set off in the car during a lull in the rain driving through some very small streets and interesting neighbourhoods. I kept asking, “Where is the park?¨ Then the mystery was solved: it was the park adjacent to one of the largest mosques in Türkiye, Grand Çamlica Mosque. It was completed and opened in March 2019 and designed by two female architects, Bahar Mizrak and Hayriye Gül Totu. It can accommodate 63,000 worshippers and has the services available to accommodate them.We had visited the mosque three years before but its impact on me was still there. The place is simply immense – and a great refuge from the rainy, cold weather. The marble paving outside of the main entrance became a golden mirrored surface in the rain and the forecourt with its cleansing fountain was almost empty of visitors.

There wasn’t a lineup to get inside and there was plenty of space to stow our shoes. The interior floor is carpeted and warm to the feet. Children were doing what they do when confronted with a wide open smooth space: run like crazy! And no-one was admonishing them or telling them to stop. It was wonderful.

The cool light of the day gave special luminosity to the stained glass so at certain points it literally glowed. The tile work is lovely and the central lighting system, similar to the older Blue Mosque, accents the central dome and the space beneath it. It was too wet, cold and windy to explore the park, so we went off in search of food and shelter elsewhere. We ended up in one of those urban temples to consumerism: a mall.

How does one say goodbye to a city, particularly a city like Istanbul? I didn’t say goodbye because I know I will return. Istanbul and Türkiye are now a part of me and there is a connection I believe will last. Wednesday was a curtailed day because of an early morning flight on Thursday, so, my last hours in the city were not dramatic, or spent savouring an historical site or event. They were concerned with the activities of regular everyday Istanbul people, shopping, eating, meeting, laughing, children playing, daily life being lived. Once more, as a wonderful, magical time in my life concludes, I am forcefully reminded how much we all have in common and how few the differences. My hope is that we will all see that and learn the truth that we have to share this planet, not constantly fight over it. It’s the only one we have. One more note of wisdom: life is terribly uncertain; eat dessert first! Adieu until next time!